Retracing my Gran's footprints, what a feeling!

16 & 17 July

Well, as most of you know, this trip to Sri Lanka is a very special one.  Not only do I get to see a good friend but I have also done my best to recreate my Gran's trip here, all those years ago.  She is the reason that I find other cultures and traditions so fascinating and I admire her greatly for all that she's seen and achieved.  This being said,  I probably don't tell her this enough!

So Tuesday, we headed up to Kandy, the 3rd capital of SL.  This was yet another 3.5 drive, so as you can probably tell, you don't get anywhere fast in this country!  Our first stop off was at the famous elephant sanctuary in Pinnewala. This government funded place is home to 76 elephants but what makes it really special is how well they look after them.  It was originally set up to take care of the injured elephants after the war but it now also takes care of those who can't be released into the wild for any reason.  I remember seeing photos/videos of this place when I was a youngster, so it brought back some great memories!

My guide timed it perfectly, we arrived just as the first set of elephants were having a bathe in the river.  From baby to mum and dad, they all seemed to be enjoying playing in the water.  It was pretty amazing to watch how the keepers communicated with them, telling them where to go or in one case what not to do (taking a number 2 in the river is apparently not quite seen as the thing to do!). One thing my guide was very good at, was sourcing the right spot to take photos.  He made me move so that I was in the perfect position to take photos as the Hurd walked past us back to the orphanage.  I could touch them, they were that close- an incredible sight. 

We then followed them back to the orphanage where we saw them in their own habitat.  It's clearly moved on a long way since when my Gran visited.  They have lots of room to roam about and are not caged up like some tourist attraction waiting to be snapped.  They have miles to wander around at their leisure under the watchful eye of the keepers and security guards.  The one remaining elephant which was hurt in the war has his own little pen and keeper to look after him.  My only disappointment was that I didn't get to feed the elephants as apparently my guide hadn't included this within the price.  I have a sneaky feeling its because I refused to give him an extra 3,000 rupees at his request!  Still, I managed to stroke one of the baby elephants who wrapped his drunk around my hand- cute or what?!

At around lunchtime, we arrived in Kandy.  A city much prettier than Columbo and one which in some areas, particularly by the lake, could easily be mistaken for Geneva or some other Western European city.  We walked up to the Golden Tooth Temple which holds the tooth of Buddha.  It amazed me at how big it was!  Everything about the temple, as expected, was beautiful and elegant.  Well worth checkin out!  

Although my guide isn't the most knowledgable guy in the world, when it comes to the temples, he knows his stuff.  So much so, that another guide stopped him mid-tour to ask him how he knew so much.  In fact, the other guide was so focused on following us around that he lost his clients! What a fool...

In the afternoon, my guide, Ruan, took me to a gem museum.  We observed the workers in the factory and watched a 10 min video on how the jewellery is made before being shown to the showroom.  It's amazing how someone's attitude changes once they know you're not interested in buying anything!  Clearly my guide gets a decent cut from this place as he was just as forceful in making me want to buy something.  Luckily my bluntness prevailed and I responded "No means NO!"  

As I was only in Kandy for 1 night, Ravini was keen that I stayed at the Thi Lanka hotel.  A very reasonably priced 4 star hotel.  Rooms were very modern and could probably given the Hilton clan a run for their money!  The staff were helpful and happy for me to sit by the pool looking out over the rooftops of Kandy until the early evening.

The disappointment of this hotel came at dinner.  I sat down at a table and waited to order a drink and see a menu.  They offered a buffet for 2,000 rupees which isn't bad for a tenner but I was never going to eat it all so I ordered off the menu.  45 mins later, my food arrived...but cold!  I politely sent it back and waited.  When it came back, it still wasn't much warmer and they'd clearly just left it on the hot plate.  Although i was distinctly not impressed, I couldn't be bothered arguing and waiting another 45 mins.  Realising I was still a little miffed, the restaurant manager offered me a dessert of my choice, on the house!  

The entertainment for the evening were a Sri Lankan band who were great and happy to play requests.  This certainly distracted me from my cold food.  The restaurant was full and the band were a hit with everyone.  From traditional songs to The Eagles and Bob Marley, we had it all.  I was so impressed that I decided to buy their cd for a fiver, not that I can understand any of the lyrics mind you!

One thing I have noticed whilst being away is how kind other travellers are.  A Dutch couple saw me sitting on my own and asked if I'd like to join them for dinner.  At first, I politely declined but the lady insisted that I join them.  I'm so glad that she did.  We spoke for a good couple of hours exchanging our opinions on the monarchy, politics, families, love, life and obviously our experiences of Sri Lanka. It was their 18 month anniversary and I felt honoured to spend it with them.  They met travelling, so fingers crossed there's hope for me yet!

Today, we finally set off in search of Melfort, a tea estate which my Gran visited all those years ago.  Located about 1.5 hours from Kandy, Melfort is set way up in the hills.  So much so that my guide was a little reluctant to even take me.  We drove up through the estate and there was not a sole around.  This had me thinking, is it even open anymore?  We were greeted by a large white almost school-like building with smashed windows.  It looked a sorry state and made me a little sad.  The place was rundown and unsurprisingly exactly the same as in my Gran's photos.  We wandered to the back of the building where the green tea is produced to be greeted by stares from curious onlooking workers.  Luckily, we managed to stop someone who told us that although the factory still produces tea, it stopped welcoming visitors 9 years ago.  I'm not going to lie, it was a little disappointing but they kindly allowed me to take a few photos for my album, and we went on our way in search of another one.  Luckily for us, tea plantations are a plenty in this area so it didn't take us long.  

My guide, Ruan, took me to one called Basilur.  In contrast to Melfort, this estate was set lower down the valley into the rock.  A large open plan almost tree house welcomes you as you turn off the road.  We were then greeted by a guy who took me around the plantation demonstrating the different methods and equipment required for making tea. It was quite fascinating particularly seeing it being done in front of you.  Once the tour was complete, we were offered a complimentary cup of tea of our choice.  I picked English Breakfast unsurprisingly, but I also tried midnight rush and mango passion.  The EB tea was devine, so much so that I bought a tin (of tea bags) to remember my visit.  

On the long way back to Columbo, we stopped for lunch at our usual pit stop place.  I tried 2 veggie pasties (similar to a samosa) and spotted some traditional Sri Lankan fudge which I gave to both my guide and Ravini's parents as a small thank you. 

Tomorrow is my last full day in SL.  I can't believe how fast a week has gone by!  I think the plan is to having a relaxing day by the pool then a few drinks in Columbo in the evening.  Not a bad way to end an otherwise great trip!

K x

Next stop: Bangkok, Thailand